Karangasem East Bali

Though we had been to Bali before, we had never visited the east of the island, which forms the regency of Karangasem. This time we went, and I am so glad we did. Less crowded and touristy than the south and Ubud, it has beautiful beaches and mountains, and very interesting cultural history. Our base in Manggis was the starting point of our explorations.

The sea was glassy and excellent for swimming. A’s happy feet:

We went snorkelling after which I dried off in the intense and delicious heat on the top deck of the boat.

Lovely Green Water seen from boat:

Me baking (mmm):

At moments like these, with the sun warm on my back, I feel really grateful to be alive and to be lucky enough to visit such beautiful places with someone I love.

Bali’s most sacred mountain, the volcanic Gunung Agung, is believed to be a copy of Mount Meru. Besakih, the holiest Balinese temple, rests on the slopes of Gunung Agung. I visited Besakih, while A arose at the crack of dawn and went to Pasar Agung, another temple on Gunung Agung, in order to get the best photographs. These two temples provide the two routes up the mountain.

Mount Agung from the foothills:

Pasar Agung. A has made this photograph look slightly extra dramatic with hdr but I love the way Balinese gates seemingly arise in the middle of nowhere, with two columns on either side, but no horizontal connection. It’s as if they are magical doors between different dimensions that look the same but actually aren’t:

Besakih. It was quite dark and cloudy when I went, just before the regular evening thundershowers. The stone used is so black because it’s volcanic.The steps have the Pandavas on one side and the Kauravas on the other. The Balinese are preoccupied with balance, and the act of maintaining it:

Temple rooftops-black palm fibre and gold:

Besakih can be a bit of a hassle to visit (it’s actually a vast warren of shrines) because of the numerous touts and guides. The guides don’t really give you any information that you can’t find out for yourself quite easily, but you can only explore the outside without one. I was happy I did take a guide, because he took me to a shrine to be blessed by a female priest and showed me how to place my offering etc. Since Balinese temples are very different from Indian ones, I was grateful for this instruction.

Priestess who blessed me. Next to her can be seen the holy water with which she blessed me and behind her some Balinese winged lions that perform a protective function, like dwarapalas. I have a green winged lion who is currently regarding me with a friendly snarl:

One of the local temples curs. He’d just finished barking and growling madly at an intruder to his shrine and is seen here taking a well deserved rest:

The temple I most enjoyed visiting was Pura Kehan in Bangli. Very quiet and with some beautiful carvings, and situated in a beautiful area. Balinese temples are quite different to Indian temples. They don’t really worship idols in the way we do. There are idols, but they are often locked away and brought out only on important occasions. Offerings are placed everywhere, to spirits and the Gods, on the ground and on specially made pedestals (Balinese offerings are a complex topic in themselves) but usually not in front of an image or idol of God. Also, the temples, can be quite spartan and stark. A lot of carving indicates that the temple was constructed by a wealthy king/family/village.

Pura Kehen disappearing into the greenery:

Detail, Pura Kehan:

Updated to add: A took some of the pictures.

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