On Goa

2008 July 19
View all posts filed under Travel

Goa has changed beyond belief. Where once half a dozen souls had solemnly applauded as the sun went down on a deserted Baga beach, now thousands stretch out on loungers. You can watch Premiership football while you eat roast beef and yorkshire pudding with Oxo gravy. Charter flights arrive by the hour from Britain and Russia and Israel. It was jarring to watch a Russian couple chase away an elderly Rajasthani woman selling bracelets on the beach with an angry “Go away!” There are drunken brawls and worse. And I spotted the traveller’s equivalent of the dead canary in the mineshaft – a copy of the Daily Express for sale.

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That ubiquitous scourge of 21st century India, the builder, has already dug his claws into this harmonious landscape, from which their monstrous glass and granite buildings stick out like sore thumbs. The disfiguring of Goa has just about begun and if not reined in soon, Goa will be ruined forever. Most Goans are bitter about what they call a systematic desecration of their homeland. To preserve Goa’s unique architecture the state government, in partnership with the people, must draw up stringent guidelines and make sure they are not violated by new construction.

Lately I have been reading a lot of descriptions of Goa like this. And every time I read them I feel rage, desperate, impotent rage. I last went there many years ago in the early nineties and loved it. Now I fear going back.

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4 Responses leave one →
  1. July 20, 2008

    I remember being very surprised on reading about a charter flight to Goa from Belgium. I didn’t realize Goa had arrived in such a big way. Like you, I too have very fond memories of the place. It makes me angry that instead of maintaining its lovely laidback charm, people are looking to convert it into Miami Beach. Development can be had in a responsible way.

  2. varali permalink
    July 22, 2008

    When I was in Goa last, went wandered into an old church that was being ‘restored’ by the ASI. The inner walls of the building were covered with lovely paintings but these were fading. As I went further in, I saw to my horror that they were whitewashing the walls! Hoping against hope that this was some new method of ‘restoring’ the frescos, I asked an official looking person about it, and he replied – yeh paintings to kuch kaam ke nahin, dekhne mein acche bhi nahi lagte. Hum is Church ka naya interior decoration kar rahe hain.

    Heartbreaking. Was this really the ASI?

  3. July 23, 2008

    I am native Goan, and I dont’ recognise the place any more nor am I inclined to holiday there. It upsets me that I cannot haggle for fish fresh off the boats on the beach because the fishermen won’t talk to you unless you’re white-skinned or will siphon it all off to the hotels. It bothers me that the whole state now caters to the new breed of Indian tourist who believes the only way to ‘enjoy’ a holiday destination is to throw money at it disrespectfully. I despair at the ‘development’ efforts and the half-hearted attempts to make Goa more ‘attractive’. Goa is fast losing (or has already lost) it’s identity and soul.

    Heartbreaking again. A lot of us middle class Indians are throwing money at a lot of things every where these days without bothering to actually enjoy them or find out about them.

  4. deepa permalink
    August 22, 2008

    read this post only today so commenting late. But don’t! Go back to Goa that is. You will shed copious tears. I am a Goan and grew up literally besides the sea and cringe everytime I go back to meet my parents and family. Desecration is a mild word to describe what is happening to the the once beautiful state. I can remember a time when the sand on the beaches was like powdered pearls; fine and translucent…..

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